Tuesday 21 June 2016

A glimpse of the green grandeur of the Western Ghats: Kumaraparvatha

An undulating and never-ending mass of green all around was the view that I was offered by the Western Ghats as I sat on the rock, facing the towering Kumaraparvatha. The clouds drifting all around added to the charm of the view. Kumaraparvatha stood taller than the other peaks around, like it was standing guard over them and the wildlife that inhabited them.

It had taken us 3.5 hours on a steadily ascending path from Kukke - trekking through tall trees, some leeches and the occasional snake – to reach the midway point (Bhattara mane) of this Kumaraparvatha trek. Despite it being the season for rains, it didn’t rain until we reached Bhattara mane. And it was an hour past noon already. But once we reached that point, rain was unpredictably on and off. The forest department was quite strict about not allowing us to trek past that point and quite understandably so; in a recent incident, lightning strikes had claimed lives. We had the entire evening to ourselves. An evening of nothingness to look forward to, with a large expanse of mountains to immerse ourselves in. Brilliant, no?

The cloud cover was a near constant and rains were very unpredictable. Heavy bouts of rains were separated by mere minutes, which made sure that we all were constantly draped in our ponchos or raincoats. However, as the evening wore on, there was a point when the rains did subside. The clouds were still among us and it seemed like the clouds were rising up from the valleys below, to join the bigger ones hovering above us.

The cloud cover was a near constant...clouds rising up from the valley
We found a smaller peak which we wanted to trek to and we occupied that for the rest of the evening to come. From this point, towards west, we could see the civilization below where the mountains ended. We could also make out the trail of the Kumaradhara river below, as it coursed through the woods. The river in itself wasn’t seen, but the clouds rising up from the path of the river plotted its slender path. To the east of the point lay the Kumaraparvatha. And on the other two sides, the clouds, mountains, trees and greenery completed the view.

About time for the sunset, I sat myself on one of the rocks around, admiring the huge mound of green in front of me. Calling it a mound of green doesn’t do enough justice for many reasons. One of them being that there were many varied shades of green. The grass and trees, feasting on the frequent rains, had produced innumerable and rich shades of the same hue. Also, setting sun playing behind ever moving clouds created such varied effects on the greens and the towering peak. All the clouds around us seemed to be attracted to the peak, offering different amount of cover to the peak, as though they were guarding the peak from the prying, hungry eyes of the people at its base.

Clouds seemed to be guarding the flat peak
There weren’t any signs of animal wildlife in these spots of the mountains; none if you exclude the leeches! The animals stay away from humans, I was told. The next day though, I would wake up to the song of a whistling thrush! How delightful was his song, whistling away to himself, safe from our eyes. The Himalayan whistling thrush supposedly stops whistling midway through, like he’s forgotten a note. This fellow in Western Ghats seemed like he knew his notes all too well. Or maybe he composed them all too well.

Back to my place on the rock, the cloud and sun combination allowed us the privilege of just a glimpse of Kumaraparvatha’s rather flat peak, a glimpse which lasted for just a few seconds. The moment was met with a collective aaahhh! I wondered if that was the Ghats' way of telling us that we humans should be limited to mere glimpses, and that if we're given more, we'd probably not leave them the way we saw them. At that moment though, the rock I sat on was the perfect place to savour this glimpse. Had I stood up and walked a few paces westwards, I’d have seen sights of civilization down below. But on this rock, there was no civilization to ruin my experience. I could as well have been in heaven. Really, at moments as special as this, seated as perfectly as I was, I start wishing for heaven to be real and for it to be an experience akin to this. But perhaps I’m looking at it in the wrong light. The heaven that I was wishing for would be a heaven worth dying for. The heaven that we have here is a heaven that’s worth living for.